جزيرة سان لوي , بندقية افريقيا
د. محمد بدي ابنو
- مدير معهد الدراسات والأبحاث العليا في بروكسيل
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تتهادى هذه الجزر الأرخبيلية بشكل طريفٍ بين الماء والماء. تلامسُ بقبضةٍ واحدةٍ مصبّ النهر (السنغال) وساحل المحيط (الأطلسي).
كلُّ من مرّوا هنا جذبتْهم أو صدّتْهم هذه الثلاثية التزاحمية : النهر والرمل والبحر. فمجْمع البحرين الذهبي والأزرق هو أيضا ملتقى الرمل والباؤوباب.
عَـبْرَ الرملِ والنهر جاء السكّانُ الأوائل، من الضفافِ والصحراء، على ظهور الجمال وفي أحضان القوارب والزوارق العتيقة. وعبْرَ البحر أو، بعبارة أدقّ، عبْرَ المحيطِ تَنافَسَ لاحقاً القادمون مع التجارة الثلاثية من البلدان الأوربية الصاعدة. تسابقتْ السفنُ العسكرية والبواخر التجارية. وتصارع البرتغاليون والهولنديون، ثم الفرنسيون والانجليز.
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في “البدء” سكنَ القادمون من الضفاف والصحراء مع الصيادين في “غتّ اندرّ” (توجد روايات ومرويات متضاربة بشأن أصل هذه التسمية) وسَطَ الشريط الرملي الرقيق الذي يحاذي غرْباً ـ دون أن يلمسَ ـ جزيرة سان لوي. يقال غالباً، رغمَ تردّد بعض الؤرخين، إنّ بحّارةً نورمانديين همْ من أطلقَ عليها هذه التسمية سنة 1659 باسم الملك الفرنسي لويس الأكبر (لويس الرابع عشر)، استحضاراً لذكرى جدّه لويس التاسع، المعروف بـسان لوي (القدّيس لويس) التي هي طبعاً لقبُه التعميدي البَعْدِي.
فمنذ مَـقْدمهم اختارَ الأوربيون هذه الجزيرة الوسطى، فهي محصّنة نسبياً بسلاح الطبيعة. تالياً أصبحَ اسمُ “سان لوي” يُطلق على أكثر من ذلك. فهو يشملُ غرباً حي “غت اندر” وامتدادَه شمالا أي حييْ “اندر توت” و”غوخومباث” (بعض الناطقين بالعربية الذين يُمَثّلون ربّما أغلبَ سكان هذا الحي الأخير يلفظون اسمه تقريباً : “بوخمباي”). كما يشمَلُ شرْقاً جزيرة سور، بلْ وضواحي أخرى.
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تمييزاً لها عن يقية المدينة، تُسمى هذه الجزيرة سان لوي البيضاء نسبةً إلى لون بيوتها الاستعمارية و، بداهةً، إلى سكّانها الأوربيين. معظمُهم هجَرها منذ عقودٍ. ولكنَّها ظلّتْ على صلةٍ موسمية ما بهم. تُحاولُ بصعوبةٍ أنْ تستثمرَ حنينَهم وتساؤلات أبنائهم وأحفادهم. فالعابرون مع ناي الشّجن همْ غالباً من سوّاح كبار السنّ، الباحثين في هذه الأرصفة الهرِمة عن كلمات السرّ في ذاكراتٍ معْتمة. أمّا من معهم من الشبّان والشابّات فكانّهم قدْ خَرَجوا للتو من بعْض روايات بلزاك وزولا ولوتي.
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يفصلُ الذراعُ الغربي للنهر بين الشريط الرملي وجزيرة سان لوي. ويربطُهُما اليومَ جسران. أحدهما (التدشين الأول: 1856) من جهة حي “غت اندر” والثاني من جهة الحي المجاور له شمالا “اندر توت” (التدشين الأول: 1864). كلاهما تمّ تدشينهما في البداية تحتَ إشراف الجنرال فيديرب خلال العشرية التي حكم فيها السنغال. فقدْ عادَ إلى فرنسا للعب أدوارٍ أخرى قابلة هي أيضاً للنقاش سنة 1865 في نفس السنة التي سيتمّ فيها تدشين الجسر الرئيس باسمه (يربط الجزيرةَ شرْقا بحي تندوغين، أحد أحياء جزيرة سور).
أين جسر الأمير محمد الحبيب ؟ الجسران الغربيان يحملان الآن رسمياً اسميْ عمدتين سابقين للمدينة. وليس في قائمة ألقابهما القديمة اسمٌ للأمير. فقط تتمُّ الإشارة ،عند الحديث عن تأسيس جسر “ليبر” (1855) الذي يربط شرْقاً جزيرةَ “سور” بالقارة، عن تعرّضه سنة تأسيسه لهجوم قادَهُ الأمير محمد الحبيب. كيف اختفى الاسم ؟ لمْ أجد بعْدُ منْ يفسِّر لي هذا اللغز.
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ينتصبُ الشريط الرملي الرقيق، في ظاهرة نادرة وغريبة، كالجدار العازل بين المحيطِ والنهر. يفصلهما ليظلاّ في توازٍ مدْهشٍ على امتدادِ مسافةٍ تزيدُ على العشرين كيلومتراً جنوبَ ّغتّ اندرّ”.
هنالك فقط يُودّعُ وينطفئ في المائين هذا الشريطُ الرملي الذي يسمّيه الأوربيون حرْفياً بـ”لسان البربرية”.
إنّه الوداعُ الذي يَندمجُ من خلاله أخيراً الساحلُ والضفة ويَتعانق الموجُ تحت أناشيد أنواع الطيور: أبناء الماء (مالك الحزين)، البجع البحري، طائر الغاق، البلشون الأبيض، إلخ.
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قدْ يكون في ذلك ما يُفسّر بعضاً من خلاف المؤرخين على مكان رباط المرابطين : هلْ هو مثلاً جزيرةُ تدرة قبالة حوض آرغين أم هو جزيرة سان لوي المجاورة شرقاً لـ”غت اندر” أي للسان البربرية. يتحدث ابن خلدون عن جزيرة الرباط : “يحيطُ بها النيل، ضَحْضَاحًا في الصيف، يُخاض بالأقدام، وغمرًا في الشتاء يُعْبَر بالزوارق” (تاريخ العبر). وكما هو معروفٌ فالنيل في التعبير الخلدوني وفي تعبيرِ كثيرٍ من المؤرخين المسلمين القدماء يَعْني في مثْلِ هذا السياق نهْرَ السنغال.
ولعلّ من الطريف هنا أنْ نشيرَ إلى ما كتَبَه فيديرب (الحاكم الفرنسي الأشهر لـسان لوي) في عمله عمّا سمّاه بـصنهاجية القبائل الصنهاجية في ضفة السنغال (مع عنوانِ فرعي : “مساهمة في دراسة اللغة البربرية”) الذي أصدرَه في آخر حياته (1877) : “في القرن الخامس الهجري (والحادي عشر في تقويمنا) فإنّ صنهاجة، في ضفاف السنغال (النهر الذي سمّيناه باسمهم والذي اختلطَ على الكتّاب العرب مع نهر النيجر، تحت اسم نيل السودان) لعبوا دوْرًا كبيراً في العالم”.
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واستطراداً، فالتعريف الجغرافي الموسّع للسان البربرية، في بعض النصوص على الأقلّ، لا يقفُ عند هذا الشريط السانلويزي بلْ يضمّ كلَّ “الزبارة” : يَستمرُّ شمالاً في معانقة ساحلِ الأطلسي ليمرّ بحوضَ آرقين ويواصل حثيثاً حتى يلفّ شاطئ شبه جزيرة نواذيبو في أقصى الشمال الغربي الموريتاني.
هذا المَقامُ المائيُ الاستثنائي جعلَ هواةَ الألقاب يُطلقون على مدينة سان لوي لقبَ بندقية إفريقيا. قد تكون مقارنةُ مُدن الثراء الفاحش بمُدن الفقر المدْقع غيرَ واردة أو وغيرَ وَجيهة. ولكنَّ الشاعر بيراغو ديوب يزيد التساؤل في قصيدته “سان لوي” (1925):
“قربَ المحيط الذي يمنعك من أن تعيشي
موجة الصحراء تدور في الأفق”
…
“من نومك العميق ليسَ لشدوٍ أيًّا يكن أنْ يخلّصكَ”.
…
“تريد أن تسمعَ صوتَك الذي سكتَ
وتمتمةَ لياليك التي انقضتْ
حيث تهيج أفكارٌتجاه القادم”
(بيراغو ديوب، ديوان “إغراءات وومضات”).
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